Desk Diving with the Alexander James NDR001
I first became aware of Alexander James during their recent Kickstarter campaign. I think I stumbled across a YouTube review of his watch which was quite favourable, the reviewer noting the great dial, lume and overall finishing. The campaign was going pretty well and at the price he had launched them I was not surprised to see him comfortably make his modest funding target. It wasn’t until several months down the track I became aware of him again through a manufacturing contact, who recommended his dive watch as a well made and great value example of the style. I headed to the Alexander James website and discovered the NDR001 in three dial options: the Black Granulated, Grey Sunburst and White Snowflake. All of them very attractive. It was finally time to dip my toe.
The NDR001 is AJ’s first large scale production run. A long time watch modder, AJ has been supplying modding parts and producing homage style pieces, most notably his Legacy collection (including the well known “Nilgauss”), for some years. AJ has been perfecting his supply chain for dials, hands and markers over that time before landing on his excellent current producer, and the results speak for themselves. The snowflake dial featured on the NDR001 and his LSW001 are stunning and it’s great to see someone outside Seiko totally nailing, let alone attempting, this effect. I chose the Black Granulated dial and the package was dispatched to Australia with haste.
At $349.99 USD I was somewhat surprised the watch arrived in such simple packaging: a simple white box sheathed in a white sleeve emblazoned with the Alexander James logo and brand name. I have certainly seen more generous offerings in watch bundles, and the exclusion of any bracelet sizing, spring bar removal tools or cleaning cloth kind of felt like a misstep.
Just a simple white box. Perhaps minimalism has reached the watch bundle
After opening the box I found a watch that lived up to the pictures: a beautifully domed piece of sapphire crystal, surrounded by a piece of black ceramic, inlaid into the coin edge bezel. The watch, for those with knowledge of the brand Richard LeGrand, there is a moment where there’s a ring of familiarity. The Richard LeGrand Odyssea has a very similar dial layout, with large arabics at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock positions and baton markers for all other hours. The baton style hands and simple arrow tipped seconds hand are also very similar to the RLG. Neither of these similarities are noted here as points of criticism, both watches are effortlessly stylish and practical, with high legibility in all light modes a real feature. There’s nothing to suggest Alexander James was seeking to replicate the Odyssea, and even were that so, the endless hack job Submariner, Seamaster and Back Bay homages are more worthy of scorn than this handsome, well executed effort. The bezel is distinct, with the countdown arabics at intervals of 10 and a lovely high gloss ceramic finish that says some money was spent in its creation.
Getting all noir: the Alexander James NDR001
The watch is finished in a lovely, high quality brushing. This is one case that has been built with a quality to match the detailed, sand textured black dial. The crown has been etched with the Alexander James logo and the style used for the crown has it extended out from the case body before the knurling section starts. I believe this has been designed so as to ensure the crown avoids catching or interfering with the action of the bezel actuation, and it’s a practical touch that is much appreciated. The case thickness of 13.2mm (14.3mm including the crystal) wears well, and the compact lug shape and size, combined with the short centre link create a compact feel. I think the design is well considered and the watch is a pleasure to wear, being not only comfortable on the wrist but having a presence that is substantial without being imposing.
The compact profile of the Alexander James NDR001
As seen above, the bezel is coin edge in style, a real favourite of ours for its look as much as its ease of grip. The NDR001 is quite thick, which is ideal, but the teeth are not as easy to grab and actuate as I might have hoped, especially considering the size. They seem a touch smooth, so that you need to make sure you really give that bezel a squeeze before turning. However, the action once turning is smooth and satisfying. This is one watch producer who understands the importance of getting that click just right. The bezel lines up perfectly and once it has clicked there’s no obvious back play: it only turns when you’re ready.
The lume of the NDR001 is excellent as well, with plenty of evenly applied BGW9 on the hands, hour markers and bezel etching. It’s always satisfying to see it glowing and think that this is a watch that sold for $300 on Kickstarter, then to compare it to other watches in my collection for two or three times that which can barely muster a weak glow after dark.
It doesn’t take much to make it glow. The Alexander James NDR001
The NDR001 features a solid stainless steel bracelet, also brushed nicely. Screw links allow for easy resizing. I took out a few links and it was a very simple operation. The flip lock, push button clasp housing is a decent if thin offering, but it’s the folding clasp arms that are the only significant weakness in what is otherwise a great watch. They’re made from a thin pressed steel that feels quite flimsy and it would be tempting to retro fit a new one just to match the rest of the watch’s quality.
The case back is a simple affair, with just the logo etched at the outer edges at the points of a triangle along with some of the basic specs of the watch.
The Alexander James NDR001 is a great first offering, that nonetheless carries some contradictions between quality finishing and components and the weaker elements like the clasp, case back and the overall packaging and inclusions. At $349.99 it’s a watch that almost feels a fraction over-priced considering what around $350 can buy you in microbrand world (see the Axios Ironclad). However, the looks and the wrist presence ultimately make this watch a winner, and we are eagerly hoping AJ releases another model soon…perhaps even an update to the NDR001 with a Miyota 9015 and a top notch clasp. The NDR001 is available now.
Specifications
Movement: Seiko NH35
Water Resistance: 200m
Case Diameter: 40mm
Lug to Lug: 48mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Thickness: 13.2mm (14.3mm to crystal’s dome)
Crystal: Blue AR Coated Low Double Domed Sapphire
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Back: Solid, etched
Bezel Style: Coin Edged
Bezel Insert: Ceramic (lumed)
Lume Type: BGW9 - hands, bezel, hour markers
Bracelet: Stainless Steel; Oyster Clasp
Visit: https://alexjameswatches.com/product/ndr001-pre-order-black-granulated-2/
Thanks all
Peter Sargison
